Going Bananas: How a Tropical Treat Became the World's Favorite Fruit

In 1870, a strange fruit arrived on the docks in New Jersey, starting an industry that would change the world. That fruit was a banana, and, although it was a staple food in tropical regions, most Americans had never tried one. Today, a century and a half later, even the most depressing gas station, corner store, or hotel breakfast buffet in the land has bananas on offer. This week, we’re exploring the story of how humans transformed a tiny berry full of tooth-breaking seeds into the soft, yellow, suggestively-shaped fruits we know and love. Listen in now for the funny but tragic story that involves the invention of the cruise ship vacation, a Brazilian beauty and her iconic tutti-frutti hat, and the creation of the first "banana republic." Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Speaker names marked ? are inferred from speaking time and the show’s known hosts — they are not voice-verified.

• 0:03Speaker 00

  This plant that we see here and these plants have changed the world in ways that are difficult to express in a single interview. From the landscapes to the history of entire countries, to cultures, to the way in which we interact with nature, and have had effects all the way into the political systems of countries and traces that are still with us.

• 0:35Nicola Twilley?

  Ooh, it's 20 questions time. What plant is this that has basically shaped everything? Cynthia, what's my first clue?

• 0:44Cynthia Graber?

  I have a hint that might only work if you went to an American summer camp, and it is this chant slash song. I like tight, I like tight, I like tight, I like apples and?

• 0:58Nicola Twilley?

  I did not grow up here, and your summer camp thing is not helping me. Truly, this is a foreign culture to me. I never even heard of a s'more till I was in my 30s.

• 1:08Cynthia Graber?

  OK, then, how about this clue from the Minions movies?

• 1:16Nicola Twilley?

  OK, I did not see the Minions movies, but it sounds like the Beach Boys inhaled a helium balloon. And what on earth does that have to do with the plant?

• 1:26Cynthia Graber?

  Let's try this clue. Babies are often started on them as food, and they like to smash the fruit into their faces as they eat.

• 1:34Nicola Twilley?

  Oh, yeah, I have got this. It's clearly the banana. What's my prize?

• 1:39Cynthia Graber?

  A Gastropod episode all about bananas. That's right, we are Gastropod, the podcast that looks at food through the lens of science and history. I'm Cynthia Graber.

• 1:47Nicola Twilley?

  And I'm Nicola Twilley. And this episode, we are going deep on the squishy yellow thing that is the number one most favorite fruit of humans and minions alike. So how did something so soft and bland that we feed it to babies shape entire landscapes and cultures?

• 2:04Cynthia Graber?

  Why did we call countries in Latin America banana republics? And can you really slip on a banana peel?

• 2:10Nicola Twilley?

  Plus, why are all the bananas in the store identical? Where are all the other kinds of bananas? They must be out there somewhere.

• 2:18Cynthia Graber?

  This episode is supported in part by the Alfred P. Sloan Foundation for the Public Understanding of Science, Technology, and Economics. Gastropod is part of the Vox Media Podcast Network in partnership with Eater.

• 2:29Speaker 03

  Support for the show comes from Google Gemini. You know that moment when curiosity strikes? You're exploring a new city with the family and a sculpture catches your daughter's eye. What is that? Who made it? With Gemini, you can snap a picture and get a fully interactive breakdown of its history, architecture, and even hidden secrets. Gemini is built for moments like that. Whether you're learning something new, solving a problem, or looking for your next favorite thing, Google Gemini is here to help. Download Gemini, Google's AI app, or visit gemini.google.com to learn more.

• 3:08Speaker 03

  Support for the show comes from TikTok. There is a scientifically documented correlation between listening to podcasts and curiosity. So since you're here, you probably enjoy discovering new things. One great place to indulge your curiosity is TikTok. Whether it's how to forecast volcanic eruptions, strange phenomena that the James Webb Space Telescope picked up near the beginning of time, or a literal deep dive on the ocean's deepest reefs, TikTok has a wealth of fascinating videos just waiting to be discovered. Your next discovery is waiting on TikTok. Learn more at tiktok.com/discovermore.

• 3:52Speaker 00

  Welcome to the tropics. We are now inside the conservatory of the New York Botanical Garden. Just a few steps behind us, we left the winter of New York, and now we are among palms and ferns and orchids and warm weather.

• 4:08Speaker 03

  A couple of months ago, Cindy and I met up in the Bronx to visit some bananas with Mauricio Diaz-Granados, who is the chief science officer at the New York Botanical Garden.

• 4:18Speaker 00

  So let's walk and explore the conservatory.

• 4:21Speaker 03

  Banana spotting.

• 4:23Speaker 00

  We're just walking around trying to find our bananas here.

• 4:26Cynthia Graber?

  We peeked through all the greenery in the conservatory until we found a banana plant. It was one stalk growing straight up, taller than either of us, with enormous leaves draping off the stalk.

• 4:36Speaker 00

  Can you see over there that there's a huge banana? That's called a Musahuamoa banana.

• 4:44Nicola Twilley?

  This is a Polynesian variety originally, though these days you can sometimes find it in South Florida and Hawaii. Apparently, as well as being a big plant, it also has unusually large fruit that are very delicious and creamy. Sadly, the tree we were looking at was fruit-free, and it wasn't really a tree.

• 5:05Speaker 00

  So what you can see as a stem is not really a stem. It's a pseudo-stem that is formed by the bases of the leaves that are grown very close to each other. So there's no wood here. And if you think about, oh, well, this is a banana tree, well, they are not trees. They are just herbs.

• 5:28Cynthia Graber?

  Herbs are defined as non-woody plants. They have smooth, flexible stems.

• 5:33Speaker 00

  And they are very soft, actually, inside because it's just leaves.

• 5:36Cynthia Graber?

  If that's not weird enough, the fruit that in the supermarket is usually pretty large is actually more related to what we'd think of as something pretty tiny.

• 5:44Speaker 00

  The bananas are berries. That's how they are classified.

• 5:49Nicola Twilley?

  I know. And while your mind is already blown into a million tiny pieces, I'm just going to point out that the top sort of tab that you use to peel open the banana, yeah, that's the bottom when the banana's growing. It's a topsy-turvy world. What can I say?

• 6:05Cynthia Graber?

  But one thing may not surprise you, listeners, and it's how big a deal bananas are. I mean, I can't even imagine any grocery store, or corner bodega, or airport convenience store without them. They're such a big deal that Dan Copel wrote an entire book about them called, yes, Banana.

• 6:20Speaker 04

  Bananas are America's favorite fruit, sells more than apples and oranges put together. In the world of the kitchen table, the banana is the fruit. It's indispensable.

• 6:34Nicola Twilley?

  And Americans are not alone in their love affair with bananas. Bananas are the fourth-largest crop in the world, right up there after much more staple-seeming foods like wheat, rice, and corn.

• 6:46Speaker 00

  Banana, in fact, is the most consumed fruit in the world. It's a herb, so it grows fast. It's delicious. It's simple. It's easy. You just peel it and eat it.

• 6:59Cynthia Graber?

  And we love it so much that it's one of the earliest plants we domesticated. It was domesticated around the same time as potatoes and beans. And based on the current evidence, it seems like we domesticated bananas before we domesticated rice and corn.

• 7:12Nicola Twilley?

  Like for most of our crops, the domestication process required a lot of optimism or maybe just extreme hunger on the part of our ancestors because if you met a wild version of a banana today, you wouldn't necessarily consider it a delicious dinner option.

• 7:28Speaker 04

  They are tiny, maybe the size of your thumb. They have very hard seeds in them. They're not inedible. I mean, I've seen birds eating them. It's just a lot of work to get a substantial amount of fruit from them.

• 7:40Speaker 05

  Yes, this is a wild species called Musa valentina.

• 7:42Cynthia Graber?

  Anthony Rodriguez is a photographer and ethnobotanist, and he's working on a book project about banana species around the world. He showed us a photo of a wild banana he'd tried when he traveled to Papua New Guinea. The banana in his photograph is not what I would expect. It's small, like Dan says, and it's almost fuchsia colored.

• 7:59Speaker 05

  It's pubescent, meaning it has a fur or a hairy. It's hairy. It's a bright pink.

• 8:05Nicola Twilley?

  The actual fruit inside this furry pink peel is just a normal creamy white color, sadly, but it has huge seeds that look like they could easily chip your tooth.

• 8:15Speaker 05

  Well, people don't eat these. When I was there, people was like, why are you eating monkey banana?

• 8:20Cynthia Graber?

  I can understand because if you don't have a good dentist on hand, eating that sounds like a not great idea. So what was it about wild bananas that was so appealing to ancient humans?

• 8:30Speaker 04

  There's two real hypotheses and, you know, people tend to argue like which is right. Actually, the truth is probably both are right.

• 8:37Nicola Twilley?

  The first hypothesis bypasses the fruit altogether in favor of something called the corm.

• 8:42Speaker 04

  The corm is the bulb at the bottom of the banana. And that's the part that you would dig out of the ground, carry over to your hut and stick in the ground. And a year, two years, three years later, you have a banana tree. The corm is also edible. It's not delicious, but it can be made into a sort of goo. And people love to eat goo, especially when they're starving. So. You know, that's one possibility.

• 9:04Cynthia Graber?

  So in one theory, maybe people first started domesticating banana plants specifically for their corms, not the fruit. And then they found some random seedless bananas. Another theory is that they weren't domesticating the banana plant at all. They were just occasionally foraging the corm or the fruit, and then they came across a lucky accident.

• 9:21Speaker 04

  Probably somebody found a mutated banana that didn't have seeds in it. And because bananas can grow this alternate way by sticking them in the ground, somebody probably said, let's give this a try.

• 9:33Nicola Twilley?

  If those early humans had said, hmm, this banana is actually quite nice. Let me take one of the new shoots that's attached to a piece of corm and plant it. Then it would grow into another genetically identical banana plant, so you'd end up with more seedless bananas for the win.

• 9:49Cynthia Graber?

  Which is obviously what you'd have to do with these new seed-free bananas to keep them seed-free. But out there in the big wide world today, there are a lot of different kinds of seed-free bananas. And so, two things. This domestication probably happened a lot over thousands of years, that people found random seed-free ones and saved them. Also, out of thousands of banana clones, sometimes genetic changes still appear, and then people would save those new varieties, too.

• 10:14Nicola Twilley?

  Wild bananas originally came from all over South Asia and Southeast Asia and Polynesia, but the earliest archaeological evidence we have of domesticated bananas comes from Papua New Guinea. Anthony told us there are thousands of different banana varieties to be found there today.

• 10:31Speaker 05

  Each particular variety has its own name, you know, local name, and they all have their purposes. A lot of them even have purposes for rituals and things of that sort.

• 10:39Nicola Twilley?

  Some are more starchy and savory. We'd call those plantains today. And some are sweeter and softer, like the dessert bananas we get at the store.

• 10:48Cynthia Graber?

  But all these bananas were originally so delicious and filling and so easy to grow and eat that they quickly spread around the world.

• 10:55Speaker 04

  Pretty much at the same pace that people did. You know, when the banana shows up in a place like Tanzania, for example, which is probably where it showed up in Africa, it's because people came from Asia in boats and grew their bananas there. Bananas are portable. I could literally pull out a banana root or corm out of a banana tree somewhere, put it in my garage for four years, and still stick it in the ground and get a banana tree.

• 11:21Nicola Twilley?

  Some of the earliest bananas arrived in Africa as much as 3,000 years ago, and they quickly became central to African cuisine and culture, too.

• 11:30Cynthia Graber?

  Just like in Papua New Guinea, there are so many different kinds of bananas in countries, including Tanzania and Uganda today. There's the kind you eat when twins are born and another you're supposed to eat when you bury a relative. There's a banana to eat when you're worried your spouse is cheating. You can make bananas into beer, and of course, you eat them at any and every time of the day.

• 11:49Speaker 04

  So this is an amazingly durable and important source of calories. And even today, it remains the primary source of calories in many countries in Africa.

• 11:59Nicola Twilley?

  But these are not the bananas on our supermarket shelves because the banana still had miles to go.

• 12:06Cynthia Graber?

  Bananas ended up on the Canary Islands, which are off the coast of Africa, and were stopping points for Spain and Portugal during the Age of Exploration. And so Europeans picked up some handy bananas and their corms for their travels when they stopped off in the Canaries and carried those bananas to the Caribbean.

• 12:21Nicola Twilley?

  So the banana had reached the Americas, but not yet America because it's tropical. It grows near the equator, and the fruit itself is soft and squishy when it's ripe, so it doesn't actually travel very well.

• 12:36Speaker 04

  The banana before the Industrial Revolution, before 1870 or so, is an exotic tropical fruit. They were rare, and they didn't keep well, so very few people had tasted a banana.

• 12:49Nicola Twilley?

  At least, very few Americans.

• 12:51Cynthia Graber?

  The first recorded bananas that made it to New York City got there in 1804. They were Cuban reds. They're small and plump and kind of reddish-purple. These bananas from Cuba occasionally made it up the coast before they went bad, and they were really expensive, like 10 bucks a pop in today's money. That's not per bunch, it's per banana.

• 13:09Nicola Twilley?

  So bananas were really a one-off thing, super rare, until a Cape Cod ship captain called Lorenzo Dow Baker turned to bananas to try to make a quick buck after a disastrous expedition to Venezuela in search of gold.

• 13:24Speaker 04

  Well, they don't find any gold. And so he limps back, you know, some of his crew haven't made it, his boat's in bad shape. He's feeling pretty bummed about the whole thing. And he gets to Jamaica, where he puts in for repairs. And in Jamaica, he sees and eats these bananas. And he thinks, man, I gotta salvage this trip somehow. Maybe I'll try to bring these bananas back to port in the United States and see if I can sell them. Completely crazy idea. I mean, this is a sailboat, so maybe he didn't know how well bananas keep, but he puts them at the front of the boat and sails into this chill wind. And somehow the bananas survive the journey.

• 14:05Speaker 04

  And he sells them right there on the dock in New Jersey, and people like them. And so he's thinking, maybe I did find gold. Let's try this again.

• 14:14Cynthia Graber?

  Within a year, Baker's bananas were big bucks. He ended up kicking off a mini banana craze in the US.

• 14:20Nicola Twilley?

  But the banana was still a little exotic and maybe even intimidating to the genteel Christians of New England and the mid-Atlantic.

• 14:29Speaker 04

  The shape of the banana is suggestive, let's say. I mean, you don't need to do much to prepare a banana in real life, but in a buttoned-up Victorian world, you need to disguise the banana. It cannot look phallic. And so the recipes are not really like banana cream pie or banana pudding. They're how to cut and present bananas and wrap them in ways that are not suggestive.

• 14:55Cynthia Graber?

  These carefully repackaged bananas also were still expensive and really only for the elite. But then Baker teamed up with another New England guy named Andrew Preston. Preston wanted to make them cheap, and that meant they had to import a lot of bananas.

• 15:09Nicola Twilley?

  Unfortunately, at exactly that moment in history, a technology came along that made transporting bananas in bulk possible. Yes, it's my old favorite, refrigeration. Also, steamships. A steamship could make a three-week journey from the Caribbean in under two, and putting big blocks of ice in the hold stopped the bananas from ripening on route.

• 15:29Cynthia Graber?

  This turned a gamble. Would the winds be at your back so you could make it before the bananas all rotted? It turned it into a sure thing, and bananas started to get big.

• 15:38Nicola Twilley?

  The only trouble was there weren't enough of them to satisfy this growing demand. The story of how the banana business took over Central America after the break.

• 15:50Speaker 03

  Support for the show comes from TikTok. There is a scientifically documented correlation between listening to podcasts and curiosity. So since you're here, you probably enjoy discovering new things. One great place to indulge your curiosity is TikTok. Whether it's how to forecast volcanic eruptions, strange phenomena that the James Webb Space Telescope picked up near the beginning of time, or a literal deep dive on the ocean's deepest reefs, TikTok has a wealth of fascinating videos just waiting to be discovered. Your next discovery is waiting on TikTok. Learn more at tiktok.com/discovermore.

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• 17:44Cynthia Graber?

  So when the ice-cooled ships belonging to Baker and Preston's company docked in Jamaica and other Caribbean islands, the people selling their bananas were all small-scale farmers. A lot of them were also formerly enslaved. They were growing for their own food and the local market, and they were happy to sell bananas to the guys on the boat sailing back to America.

• 18:02Nicola Twilley?

  At the time, thanks in large part to colonialism, countries in the Caribbean and Latin America in general were very poor. But they saw the US and Europe industrializing and developing railroads, steam-powered factories, and they wanted some of that, too.

• 18:18Speaker 08

  It was a time when a lot of governments were trying to modernize in Central America, and that often involved dreams of a railroad.

• 18:26Cynthia Graber?

  Ben Brice was a public health professor at the University of Montreal and author of the new book Banana Capital: Science and Poison at the Equator.

• 18:34Nicola Twilley?

  In order to achieve their dreams of railroads without spending money they didn't have, the solution Central American countries came up with was to give away huge chunks of land to tempt American entrepreneurs into building infrastructure for them.

• 18:49Cynthia Graber?

  One of those American entrepreneurs was named Minor Keith. His uncle built a railroad in Chile, and then he built railroads in Peru, and he invited his nephew Minor to Costa Rica to oversee the construction of the railroad there in 1871.

• 19:02Speaker 08

  And so Minor Keith was given a large portion of the country, essentially, in exchange for building a railroad. And so that enabled him to build the railroad, but also to start planting bananas on the side of the tracks with the workers. And so that was initially the workers he'd brought in, especially from Jamaica.

• 19:20Nicola Twilley?

  Who already liked eating bananas and knew how to grow them, which was helpful.

• 19:25Speaker 04

  He has this jungle. He says, what am I going to do with it? Well, he's got another problem. He has to feed his workers. Well, what's easy to grow? Bananas. So he starts growing bananas on the side of the railroad to feed his workers at first. And suddenly, he found himself, rather than...

• 19:42Speaker 00

  Managing this project of the railroad, becoming the CEO of a corporation trading bananas.

• 19:51Cynthia Graber?

  It took 20 years to build the railroad, but by this point, Baker and Preston had their banana company, Boston Fruit, up and running with those handy refrigerated chips. And they were looking for a source of a lot of bananas. And guess what? That's just what Keith was growing on all that land.

• 20:06Nicola Twilley?

  And the company that was born when Keith joined forces with Boston Fruit, you'll have heard of it because still to this day, most bananas in the store are from this company. Nowadays, it's called Chiquita. Back then, it was called United Fruit.

• 20:21Speaker 08

  And because it was so big, it was able to eat up a lot of competitors.

• 20:26Cynthia Graber?

  This point in time, this moment when Keith formed his plantations and the bananas were shipped on Preston and Baker's boats, this turned the banana from a crop that people farmed, lots of different kinds on a small scale. It had become an industrial product grown at scale on a plantation. All the bananas were one kind, the growy shell.

• 20:44Speaker 04

  It is a tougher banana. It's much easier and cheaper to ship. It ripens much more evenly and a little more slowly. So generally, its shipability and its toughness is what makes it so important.

• 20:57Nicola Twilley?

  In the 1880s, Americans on the East Coast could choose between multiple different kinds of expensive bananas, little, big, red, green, fat, thin. In the 1890s, they could only get the growy shell, a plump, yellow banana. But they paid a lot less for it.

• 21:16Cynthia Graber?

  This was also the moment that Central America was becoming completely transformed. Enormous tracts of forest were totally cut down. Wetlands were drained. Workers were transported from islands or from other rural areas to work on these plantations. Companies built huge towns for their workers in the middle of the forests. Everything changed.

• 21:34Nicola Twilley?

  That was for growing all the bananas. But to get this vast quantity of bananas to the US, that called for the invention of the cruise ship.

• 21:43Speaker 04

  One of the most important efficiencies that United Fruit had was to use white ships. White ships stay cooler because white is going to reflect the sun. And so their fleet became known as the Great White Fleet.

• 21:56Speaker 09

  For many years, these fascinating tropical countries have been served by United Fruit Company's Great White Fleet.

• 22:04Speaker 09

  These lands are principally agricultural and their combined population is actually less than the population of New York City.

• 22:12Speaker 04

  Again, this is a low-margin business. So what are you going to do with these boats? You can't, there's nothing you're going to bring down to Central America except people. And so they invent these ships that are cargo ships cooled by ice. So these are the first air-conditioned cruise ships.

• 22:29Cynthia Graber?

  And while vacation might have been a seasonal thing for the handful of Americans wealthy enough to cruise to the Caribbean and Latin America, bananas made their way north on these white cruise ships all year round. This additional revenue stream helped make bananas even cheaper and more ubiquitous in the US.

• 22:45Nicola Twilley?

  But to become a big, big thing, for the banana to be the cheapest and most popular fruit in the entire land, that took some marketing sparkle.

• 22:56Speaker 04

  For example, to reduce the taboo effect of bananas, United Fruit publishes hundreds of thousands of postcards featuring proper ladies eating bananas. And this makes the world safe for bananas.

• 23:11Nicola Twilley?

  Thanks to the good work of the advertising men, bananas were not just safe, they were bursting with health and nutrition.

• 23:18Speaker 10

  One thing that was appealing was that bananas were in a germ-free wrapper.

• 23:21Nicola Twilley?

  This is Amy Spellessi, a professor at NYU who teaches a class on bananas.

• 23:26Speaker 10

  The banana came with its own packaging, the outside peel that kept the fruit clean.

• 23:30Cynthia Graber?

  United Fruit hired doctors to convince mothers that bananas were great as baby food. These marketers are also the ones who came up with the idea of slicing bananas into newly popular breakfast cereal.

• 23:40Speaker 09

  Rich in minerals and vitamins, this great American fruit is the familiar commodity in the markets of the world.

• 23:48Speaker 11

  At breakfast, for example, sliced bananas and cereal. At 10 a.m., a slice of banana bread or banana nut bread makes an appetizing morning snack with a glass of milk.

• 24:02Speaker 09

  School cafeterias meticulous in providing balanced lunches for children.

• 24:07Speaker 09

  Report bananas among the most popular and best liked of all fruits.

• 24:11Cynthia Graber?

  And they tried to convince adults to eat bananas in all sorts of ways.

• 24:15Speaker 10

  So they created all these cookbooks to sort of promote banana consumption. You know, we look at them now, some of them sound appealing, some of them sound really gross. Anyone for banana meatloaf? No? They were really promoting this idea of cooking bananas, broiling bananas.

• 24:30Speaker 11

  6:30 means supper, and a fine broiler meal, indoors or out, is the banana mixed grill.

• 24:37Speaker 10

  They show bananas as a side dish with ham and eggs, baked bananas, banana scallops, where you sort of dip the bananas in breadcrumbs and cook them in a frying pan.

• 24:48Speaker 11

  Cooking time, only two minutes.

• 24:51Cynthia Graber?

  All of this banana propaganda was working. Bananas caught on, and not just in the kitchen, but in popular culture, too.

• 25:07Nicola Twilley?

  You make think a new Taylor Swift or Beyonce song is a big deal today? Let me tell you, "Yes, We Have No Bananas" would have blown them out of the water. The song was released in 1923, and it was a sensation. The New York Times ran an article trying to figure out why, quote, "97.3% of the great American nation was singing 'Yes, We Have No Bananas.'"

• 25:31Cynthia Graber?

  They couldn't come up with a satisfactory answer to that question, and nobody really knows what this song about a fruit vendor means, but there was literally a 10-piece banana band that toured the country playing the song. Even the sheet music flew off the shelves.

• 25:44Speaker 12

  Who asked you for bananas anyway? Who asked you? I only want a hot dog sandwich. Hot dogs are better than bananas. I always say, ain't it?

• 25:53Speaker 13

  Oh, yes. We have no bananas.

• 25:58Speaker 12

  We have no bananas today.

• 26:03Nicola Twilley?

  That particular song was pretty PG, even if it was supposedly making fun of an immigrant fruit vendor's shaky grasp of English. But despite the advertisers' best efforts, the banana had never fully let go of its saucy side. Other hip banana tunes of the 1920s and 30s included "I've Never Met a Straight Banana" and this raunchy little number, "Banana in Your Fruit Basket."

• 26:29Speaker 14

  I've got a brand-new Skinner. I've got a brand-new lid. All I need's a warmer 'cause I'm burning my bread. And I'm telling you, baby, I sure ain't going tonight.

• 26:45Speaker 14

  Let me put my banana in your fruit basket, and I'll be satisfied.

• 26:51Cynthia Graber?

  Speaking of risque bananas, Josephine Baker was a famous African-American dancer and singer who lived in Paris. She was super cool, and by the way, also ended up spying for the Allies during World War II. But in the 20s, she performed at a club wearing only a beaded necklace and a skirt made of plastic bananas.

• 27:08Nicola Twilley?

  Josephine was just the first in a long line of "exotic beauties" associated with the banana. The most famous was probably the movie star Carmen Miranda.

• 27:19Speaker 10

  She was Brazilian, but represented various Latin American characters in these films, always in her signature exotic costume with fruit piled on her head.

• 27:29Cynthia Graber?

  Carmen Miranda was a singer and a samba dancer, but she really became famous when she started starring in Hollywood movies. A big one was a musical called "The Gang's All Here", and she sang with a troupe of ladies holding giant bananas, and there was a bunch of bananas perched on her head.

• 27:44Speaker 15

  Some people say I dress too gay, but every day I feel so gay. And when I'm gay, I dress that way. Something wrong with that? No? Americans tell me that my heart is high because I will not take it off to kiss a guy. But if I ever start to tear it off, aye, aye. Aye, aye. I do that once for Johnny Smith, and he is very happy with the lady in the tutti-frutti hat.

• 28:14Nicola Twilley?

  Carmen Miranda's tutti-frutti hat wasn't sponsored by the banana companies, but they saw it, they loved it, and they promptly ripped it off.

• 28:23Speaker 10

  She's used as the inspiration for Chiquita Banana.

• 28:27Speaker 10

  When you look at an image of Chiquita Banana, she's an actual banana. Her body is the banana and she has a skirt that sort of mimics the costume of Carmen Miranda and the hat with the fruit piled on top.

• 28:40Nicola Twilley?

  Like her inspiration, Ms. Chiquita was an absolute icon. And as she shimmied around, topless in her fruit headdress, she continued the good work of helping make Americans feel comfortable with this tropical fruit. She told Americans how to know when to eat bananas.

• 28:56Speaker 16

  I'm Chiquita Banana and I've come to say bananas have to ripen in a certain way and when they're flecked with brown and have a golden hue, bananas taste the best and are the best for you.

• 29:09Nicola Twilley?

  And in another commercial, Ms. Chiquita tells people how bananas can help them out with their love life.

• 29:14Speaker 10

  There's a young woman at home. It's a cartoon, right? She's sitting at home, sad that she can't get the attention of any young men.

• 29:23Speaker 16

  I'm happy day. Why don't they ever give me a tumble? I'm Chiquita Banana and I've come to say to a fellow's heart, his stomach is the way. It's an ancient formula, you must admit, and we'll put it to the test with a banana split.

• 29:40Speaker 10

  And the young men come running and Chiquita sort of has shown her, you know, the path to a young man's heart is through preparing a banana split.

• 29:48Speaker 17

  Oh, I think I see a beauty. Now you're talking. She's a honey. We miss her. And we're banana splits or something. You make me wanna kiss her. Now, don't be frank.

• 30:01Nicola Twilley?

  Even though you might think that Ms. Chiquita, as a topless, confident and very chic tropical beauty, could be a little threatening to Ms. Average American Housewife, Amy says that wasn't the case at all. She was more like a BFF.

• 30:16Speaker 10

  There's one where she is, she shows up and she's sort of like a coach and a mentor to a tired American housewife who's at home ironing and she's sad and she's depressed. She's kind of sagging over the ironing board and Chiquita Banana dances in and encourages her to sort of take care of her appearance, eat more fruits and vegetables. She shows her how to prepare a banana salad.

• 30:42Speaker 18

  Good morning, ladies. Do you feel miserable? Does your back ache? Are your poor feet tired?

• 30:53Speaker 18

  What you need is banana.

• 30:55Speaker 16

  To keep a banana, and I've come to say that you really shouldn't get yourself run down this way. You must have nutrition and to get it right. You should really eat some food each morning, noon and night. You'll find by eating food you'll have more beautiful appearance and complexion. Some other nature's beauty treatment to help you look perfection. Indeed, you're right.

• 31:20Nicola Twilley?

  There is something kind of wrong about a banana encouraging more banana consumption, but we'll leave that to one side for now.

• 31:27Cynthia Graber?

  But in general, all of this is a huge success. Everyone's eating bananas and oops, they're tossing the peels on the ground.

• 31:34Speaker 04

  And this popularity goes so crazy that a problem begins to develop. What is the nature of the crisis? It's not just rotting, stinking fruit peels. It's that a rotting, stinking banana peel is slippery. And people start slipping on them and getting hurt. Now, I know nobody believes this is true.

• 31:50Nicola Twilley?

  Today, it does seem unlikely. I agree, but there are two things to bear in mind. One, the gromy shell banana was known to have a particularly slippery skin. And two, a banana that has been lying on the ground for long enough to rot really is pretty slippery. And just in case you're still skeptical, take it from Dan, it is possible.

• 32:11Speaker 04

  And this sounds like a total lie, but it is true. I actually did slip on a banana peel when I was young and broke my elbow.

• 32:19Speaker 04

  In New York on 23rd Street.

• 32:21Cynthia Graber?

  Dan's banana fall is rare today, but clearly it was a serious problem back then.

• 32:25Speaker 04

  And if you look at things like the Boy Scout manuals from those days, Boy Scouts are supposed to do one good deed a day. And one of the suggested deeds was go around your neighborhood and pick up banana peels. Not orange peels, not fruit peels, banana peels. Cities begin to issue ordinances against discarding banana peels. St. Louis has one. People will be fined if they throw a banana peel on the ground.

• 32:50Cynthia Graber?

  This was a success and city sidewalks became cleaner.

• 32:53Speaker 04

  Once it no longer becomes a serious matter, it becomes a laughing matter. And so. The slip on the banana peel begins to emerge in silent movies, right there along with the throwing of the pie and the Keystone Cops. And it becomes a huge gag.

• 33:10Nicola Twilley?

  And meanwhile, all of this exotic dancing and slapstick comedy is just cementing the romance that Americans are having with bananas. We could not get enough of them.

• 33:21Speaker 04

  So the popularity of bananas is what directly leads to the expansion of bananas. The expansion of bananas leads to more popularity and so on and so on, until literally Central America is controlled from top to bottom by United Fruit, by the banana companies.

• 33:39Nicola Twilley?

  In this control of Central America, this is where the banana story takes a turn. No more fun and games in banana hats. It's time to meet the banana's dark side after the break.

• 33:51Speaker 19

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• 34:48Speaker 21

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• 35:18Speaker 04

  You know, anybody who wants to understand how the banana industry worked needs to listen to that song "Deo."

• 35:34Speaker 04

  The lyrics of the song are, "Me work all night and drink the rum."

• 35:38Speaker 22

  Work all night and I drink a rum.

• 35:46Speaker 04

  "Hey, Mr. Tallyman, tally me banana. Me chop bananas till the morning come."

• 36:06Speaker 04

  This is a description of how banana work worked. When banana workers were, they were waiting for the white ships to come. They would stand and look out on the horizon. And these ships would approach and begins this frenzy of chopping bananas all night long fueled by rum. And, you know, when daylight comes, the bananas are chopped down and these ships are quickly loaded because bananas are perishable.

• 36:37Speaker 04

  So this whole thing happens very rapidly. And then the guys have to get paid by the tallyman, who literally counts bananas, because you're paid by the piece.

• 36:52Nicola Twilley?

  Life for the workers on a United Fruit plantation was not as glamorous or fun as Carmen Miranda and Muschikita made bananas seem. The workers lived in company-built housing in the middle of the cut-down jungle. Malaria and tuberculosis were common. They worked nonstop during the banana harvest. They spent up to half their salary on food sold to them by the company. There were snakes and spiders. It was grim.

• 37:17Cynthia Graber?

  So the companies clearly weren't treating their workers well, but they also weren't treating the countries they worked in well, because they basically tried to run the governments, too. And the person who kind of perfected this playbook was a man named Samuel Zamari. He was later known as Sam the Banana Man. He got his start on the Gulf Coast in the US.

• 37:35Speaker 04

  He is an immigrant, a poor immigrant from Bessarabia. And he's a peddler. He carries stuff on his back, pots, pans, anything people need. And one of the things he begins to do is take overripe bananas, slightly overripe bananas that the markets won't sell. And he sells them as seconds.

• 37:54Nicola Twilley?

  From this humble beginning, Sam got going in bananas. He started a banana company, bought up someone else's railroad concession on the north coast of Honduras in 1905, and began shipping fruit north.

• 38:06Cynthia Graber?

  Sam had a great deal on Honduras. It was a poor country. And in return for his investment, they weren't charging him tariffs on exporting his bananas. But after just a couple of years, there was a new president on Honduras. And because the government was in debt, he was about to strike a deal with the US government to allow an American bank, JP Morgan, to collect tariffs.

• 38:25Nicola Twilley?

  Sam was pretty sure that JP Morgan was going to raise his tariffs, and he wasn't excited about that.

• 38:31Speaker 08

  And so Zamari actually worked with a Honduran general and some unsavory characters he gathered up in New Orleans.

• 38:40Speaker 04

  And they hatch this plot to secretly take a boat to Honduras and take over the country. Sounds crazy, but somehow they actually managed to do this. And so, within six weeks, Sam Zamari is now the, basically, the uncrowned king of Honduras.

• 38:59Cynthia Graber?

  This was great for Sam. He could install a new president and now say, go jump in a lake to JP Morgan and not have to pay those tariffs. But all that wasn't enough. He also wanted access to a lot more land.

• 39:11Speaker 04

  So Zamari, who was a blunt force kind of guy in a world of blunt force kind of guys, burns down some city halls, destroying the property records. So nobody owns that land anymore. So Sam can step in and take it.

• 39:23Nicola Twilley?

  This was criminal as well as immoral, but also kind of standard behavior for banana guys at the time. The only real difference in this specific coup was that a fruit company guy was going against the US government. Normally, the two forces, Big Banana and Uncle Sam, they operated hand in hand.

• 39:43Cynthia Graber?

  Because America saw these companies as kind of an extension of our own governmental influence in the region. And when I say influence, it's more than that.

• 39:51Speaker 08

  Latin America was seen as sort of a treasure trove of resources just waiting to be made productive by American interventions, by American, you know, men of science and business. And so these attitudes allowed the US to justify intervening in Latin America when there were things like, for example, rest of workers or strikes in aid of hospitable government allies or potentially in opposition to to other governments that were less welcoming to American business interests.

• 40:25Nicola Twilley?

  Sometimes guaranteeing American business interests took force. Other times, it just took carefully distributed cash. But either way, from the 1890s, the banana companies basically ran the show, backed up with the threat of US military action.

• 40:40Speaker 04

  Because these are third world countries. Many of them have weak governments, if any government at all. There's a lot of money to be spread around. And so, starting around 1894, the very first interventions on behalf of the banana companies, sometimes by private armies, sometimes by US armies, begins. And the purpose of these interventions is exclusively to secure land and labor for the banana companies at the lowest possible cost, except the cost to human life.

• 41:11Cynthia Graber?

  And at times, that human cost was shockingly high.

• 41:14Speaker 00

  In Colombia, we had one of the most difficult times in in bananas history. And that is what we remember as the massacre of the banana plantations.

• 41:25Nicola Twilley?

  In 1928, tens of thousands of workers on the United Fruit plantations near Siena Gua on the Caribbean coast of Colombia went on strike.

• 41:34Speaker 04

  They're going on strike for basic things, better hours, healthcare, bathrooms. And United Fruit decides that it has to do something, that they are desperately afraid of this sort of like imaginary domino, that if Siena Gua and that region of Colombia falls, so will the rest of the nation. And from there, the banana industry's entire business model will have the rug pulled out from under it. They will have to Treat people decently.

• 42:02Cynthia Graber?

  And of course, they didn't want to treat people decently. The way the banana industry was set up was that bananas had to be as cheap as physically possible. And the Colombian elites were making money on bananas, too, so it wasn't like they were on the side of the workers. So when the US put pressure on the Colombian government, they had no problem declaring martial law.

• 42:20Nicola Twilley?

  But the workers held firm. The strike wasn't going anywhere until one day in December that year. It was a Sunday, and hundreds of banana workers had just attended mass with their wives and children. Then they gathered in the central square of San Diego to hear a speech from the local governor.

• 42:36Cynthia Graber?

  The Colombian army had placed soldiers with machine guns at all four corners of the square. They told the workers they had five minutes to disperse, but they couldn't. They were packed together in the square, and so the soldiers opened fire on them.

• 42:47Speaker 00

  With the support of the Colombian government, the army killed many hundreds of these protesters. Some books say that more than 1,000 people were killed just in one place as they were leaving the church.

• 43:04Nicola Twilley?

  Some say it was as many as doubled that.

• 43:07Speaker 00

  And that was not just the workers, but also their wives and the children. Everybody was killed. So that initiated even more violent protests to fight for their rights, and that is a dark chapter of Colombian history.

• 43:26Nicola Twilley?

  Because not only was that massacre completely horrific, it actually started Colombia down a really dark path.

• 43:32Speaker 00

  The outcome of those was the realization in that moment, at least in Colombia, that protesters needed to find other ways to fight for their rights and for more humane conditions. And ended up with supporting social movements that were controlled even more violently by the government until the famous date of 1948, where the main candidate for the presidency of Colombia Jorge Lea Sergaitan was killed just a week before the elections. And that was the official beginning of the Colombian guerrillas.

• 44:16Cynthia Graber?

  The ripple effect from this banana massacre, it had an impact all the way through to the Colombian Civil War that lasted for more than half a century and led to the deaths of more than 200,000 people. It didn't come to an end until 2016.

• 44:29Speaker 00

  So since 1948, the country, Colombia, my country, has been living with a continuous war against the guerrillas, initially fighting for the rights of the poor classes. So the bananas occupy a chapter in that dark, violent history of my country.

• 44:52Nicola Twilley?

  The banana companies, and really, there were only two that mattered by the 1920s, United Fruit and its competitor, Standard Fruit, which is called Dole today. They truly ran the countries they operated in. They controlled the government. They had access to the US military. They got what they wanted, which was cheap bananas.

• 45:10Cynthia Graber?

  It's impossible to exaggerate the influence and control that banana companies had. They ran the railroads, as we said. They also built hospitals and the electricity grid. They ran radio networks. And they generated basically all of the income that the Latin American countries needed to pay their debts.

• 45:25Speaker 00

  So over the years, these plantations became huge. They had the support of the government. The United Fruit was also supporting the politicians in various ways. And because the decisions were made in a totally influenced way, that's why many times we call these countries banana republics.

• 45:50Nicola Twilley?

  Yes, banana republic is not just a clothing store. It is, in fact, a term coined by the writer O. Henry to refer to countries where the government was totally ineffective because the banana companies were in charge. Primarily Honduras, which had become banana central by then, but later Guatemala, which picked up the banana baton.

• 46:11Cynthia Graber?

  And like Mauricio said, the biggest company of all was United Fruit. By the 1920s, it was so big and so influential and had tentacles that were so far reaching that Latin American journalists had started nicknaming United Fruit El Pulpo, the octopus. And unsurprisingly, El Pulpo's motives and desires over the next decades, those were not usually good for the locals.

• 46:32Nicola Twilley?

  And in the end, not so great for the bananas either. Because all those grow my shell bananas, they were all clones, all growing together on plantations, which meant that when disaster struck, they were all at risk.

• 46:46Speaker 00

  And that's what is sometimes called banana apocalyptic scenario.

• 46:55Nicola Twilley?

  That's right, you are just gonna have to sit tight and wait for banana again until next episode.

• 47:01Cynthia Graber?

  That, plus all the unusual and delicious banana varieties that we're missing out on in the US.

• 47:05Nicola Twilley?

  Thank you this episode to Mauricio Diaz-Gornados, Anthony Rodriguez, Dan Copel, Ben Brizbois, and Amy Spellicy.

• 47:12Cynthia Graber?

  Check out our website for a link to Dan's fabulous book and the New York Botanical Garden and everyone's photos and research, et cetera. Thanks, as always, to our fantastic producer, Claudia Guy. We'll be back in a couple of weeks. Till then.

• 47:27Speaker 03

  Support for the show comes from TikTok. There is a scientifically documented correlation between listening to podcasts and curiosity. So since you're here, you probably enjoy discovering new things. One great place to indulge your curiosity is TikTok. Whether it's how to forecast volcanic eruptions, strange phenomena that the James Webb Space Telescope picked up near the beginning of time, or a literal deep dive on the ocean's deepest reefs. TikTok has a wealth of fascinating videos just waiting to be discovered. Your next discovery is waiting on TikTok. Learn more at tiktok.com/discovermore.

• 48:11Speaker 19

  Pink Pantheress here. Coach and Spotify are teaming up to bring music and style together, and they want you to be part of it. Grab your friends and head to the Tavi Tour, hitting cities around the country with live performances from special artists, exclusive experiences and personalised products. And discover custom playlists on Spotify, booked just for you based on who you are and how you listen. Live your story with Coach. Learn more at coach.com.