Pod Insights The MeatEater Podcast Ep. 728: Dispatches from Africa - Tracking Dangerous Game About this episode Steven Rinella https://www.instagram.com/stevenrinella/?hl=en talks with Senior Tracker Eliamani Marugwe.
Topics Discussed: How to read signs on the ground; how to tell whether a track is old or new; sneaking up on game; poaching as a child and hunting cape buffalo with poison arrows; lighting restorative bush fires; and more.
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Transcript Speaker names marked ? are inferred from speaking time and the show’s known hosts — they are not voice-verified.
0:00 Speaker 00 This is an iHeart Podcast. Guaranteed Human.
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2:32 Speaker 02 Okay, everybody, this is where it's time right now for, uh, what are we calling these? Africa Dispatch, Tanzania Dispatch?
2:38 Speaker 03 Uh, Dispatch is from Africa.
2:40 Speaker 02 Dispatch is from Africa, Volume 2.
2:42 Speaker 03 Flop 2.
2:44 Speaker 02 What is it?
2:44 Speaker 03 Flop.
2:45 Speaker 02 Flop 2, that's right, because you're flopping right now. We're on Flop 2. Last night, we made a list of how many game animals we seen in three days. This is our fourth full hunt day. Yep. In three hunt days, I think our list was 10? Yeah, yeah, we're at least at 10, and I think we skipped a couple. I think there's stuff we missed. Yeah, and right now, we are on, if it's 10, we're on number 11. Yep. We're working on number 11. Yeah, it's gonna happen. So, last night, um, yesterday evening, we were driving through an area. We drove a long ways yesterday. Yeah, we did, we put some miles on. We had to go 100 miles yesterday. Oh, easily, easy.
3:24 Speaker 02 We were driving through the, an area, and, um, the trackers from the truck saw where there had been a herd. Yep. In one of the burned areas. Yep. And then we drove a little more, and the trackers jumped out, and counted where four bulls had crossed this trail. Yep. So, today, we came in in the morning, parked, and started walking into that area, and like, boom, found where, found three bulls. Yep. So, we got on the tracks, and the guys, two of our trackers, Salmani. Yep. And Elimani. Yep. Elimani's standing here with us right now.
4:10 Speaker 02 Followed them, um, they were kind of, they were in sort of a flat, and moved up a rocky valley wall. Yeah. We bumped them. Yep, they got our wind. They went, climbed out, went to the ridge, climbed back down into the valley we were in, entered this big area of, of eight-foot-high grass with maybe a few yards of visibility. Yeah, maximum. The guys tracked them, tracked them until eventually you could hear them milling around. And they were like there.
4:39 Speaker 04 Yeah, well, the birds gave them away. The guys heard the the birds on them.
4:43 Speaker 02 Oxpeckers.
4:45 Speaker 04 They could hear them kind of chattering. And so, you know, we knew those buffalo were right there in front of us, maybe fifty yards, something like that.
4:52 Speaker 02 Oh, yeah, you just hear them.
4:53 Speaker 04 Oh, you could hear them, yeah.
4:54 Speaker 02 But yeah, not a prayer of seeing them.
4:55 Speaker 04 No.
4:56 Speaker 02 They milled out of there. The guys tracked them again. And this is hours of time that goes by. Bumped them again. And now you feel like we're just gonna keep hammering on them, keep going.
5:11 Speaker 04 Yeah, absolutely. So, I mean, the closest we got in that tall grass was like twenty five yards. I mean, I could just, I could hear them like right there. Just, the only thing I saw was just like a glimpse of one's back line. You know, it was so thick in there. And then, you know, from there, they weren't really spooked. They were a little suspicious, so they moved off. They kind of came into this meembo here, laid down. And then, yeah, unfortunately, we were just, gee, you know, it was one of those things. Even me, you know, I kind of learned a lesson, like my concentration was lapsing a little bit.
5:41 Speaker 02 Yeah, yeah.
5:42 Speaker 04 And we were kind of like, well, let's just sit down. You know, the tracks were really faint. It was getting tough. And I was like, well, let's just chill out for a while, let the trackers sort this out. And then, yeah, we bumped them. I mean, even if we'd been standing with these guys, we likely wouldn't have gotten a shot, but we would have seen them at least.
5:56 Speaker 02 But really, it played out when I was first talking to you, getting interested in hunting Cape buffalo. And you were laying out like how it works.
6:03 Speaker 04 Yeah.
6:03 Speaker 02 You included everything that happened.
6:07 Speaker 04 Yeah, well, even down.
6:08 Speaker 02 You'll find them, you might move them, wait a while.
6:12 Speaker 04 Find them again.
6:13 Speaker 02 Find them again, keep bumping them along.
6:15 Speaker 04 Yeah, well, even when we were in that tall grass, you know, you saw them kind of zigzagging back and forward, which is an indication they're looking for somewhere to lay down. You know, they're tired of walking, they're ready to lay down, they want to ruminate. So, yeah, we saw that several times today. And yeah, unfortunately, just bumped them. But on the on the good side, when they ran off, they made a considerable amount of tracks. So we've got something to work with this afternoon. So once we wrap up here, we're gonna get right back on them.
6:40 Speaker 02 Yeah, and you explained to me before.
6:44 Speaker 02 You can't do this without trackers.
6:46 Speaker 04 Oh, no.
6:47 Speaker 02 It's absolutely dependent on trackers. The other day, we were tracking one. And I said to you, I'm like, I don't get what they're seeing. And you said, that's the point. They can see things that you can't see. Not that you don't know how to see, but you're like, they see things you can't see.
7:08 Speaker 04 Yeah, that's absolutely right. I mean, their skills are phenomenal, what they can do. And the mental concentration and energy it takes to stay on those tracks. In this sort of thing, you know, where you've just got leaf litter on the ground, they can track those buffalo through here. I mean, yeah. Even after all my years in the bush, I wouldn't have a hope of being able to do what they can do, so.
7:27 Speaker 02 Do me a favor and ask, ask Elimani. When he picks up a piece of grass and looks at it and shows you and shows his partner, his other tracker, the grass, what are the things he's like, what is he looking at? What are the indicators he's looking at when he picks up a piece of grass?
7:47 Speaker 04 Okay, yeah. Elimani, kama unajua mara kwa mara unavyo beba chukua majani au niyasi kuangalia, unangalia nini, unangalia?
8:04 Speaker 00 Nageri bu kuangalia kwa mbu, inevunjika, ni kwa katigiani. Ni kwa sababu kwa sasa, kwa sababu tunafata au ya jana, au ya sasa. And you unangalia kama ni mbichi, freshi, unazua kutakavu, anasema ni ya jana, au ya juzi. Kama ni mbichi, ya sasa.
8:24 Speaker 04 Sawa kapisa.
8:25 Speaker 00 Kama ni na maji, maji kidogo, unajua ni asubui sakumi na moja, sakumi na mbichi.
8:29 Speaker 04 Sawa kapisa. Yeah, so he's, when he, when he picks up a piece of grass, what he's looking for is like, if it was broken or if it was damaged when it got trodden on by the buffalo, he can tell based on like whether it's dry, whether it's still wet, whether it's got some water on it from like the dew in the early morning, when that actually occurred, when those buffalo passed through there. So he'll look at a piece of grass and he'll be able to tell based on its condition, exactly when those buffalo passed through.
8:59 Speaker 02 Yeah. Ask him, what is his favorite animal to track?
9:05 Speaker 04 Sasa, kama unapenda kuinda wanyama gani kuliko wanyama wengini?
9:14 Speaker 00 Ni mbogo zaidi, kasa wengini, ukupata ni kama bure.
9:20 Speaker 00 Nambamoya, nambamoya mbogo.
9:22 Speaker 04 So, yeah, buffalo is number one. He says all the others are kind of easy.
9:26 Speaker 02 Oh.
9:26 Speaker 04 In comparison, but mbogo, uh, mbogo, which is buffalo, is number one.
9:31 Speaker 02 Um, how old was he when he first started studying how to track?
9:36 Speaker 04 Okay, um, ulipokuwa kijana, ulianza kujifunza kufuata nyayolini?
9:46 Speaker 00 Ah, skujenge, kasa sasa, nimeanza moka semana nane kuinda.
9:51 Speaker 04 Kuinda.
9:51 Speaker 00 Ah, yarakini nimeanza nyumbani Maswa.
9:53 Speaker 04 Uh huh, uh huh.
9:54 Speaker 00 Nimeanza kama, kama jangiripia, ajua kutega mitega yote.
9:58 Speaker 04 Uh huh.
9:59 Speaker 00 Ajua kupiga kwa mshale na sumu.
10:01 Speaker 04 Ah, ngweli.
10:02 Speaker 00 Kwa kabisa kabisa.
10:03 Speaker 04 Kwa ngweli.
10:06 Speaker 00 Sane, kwa kabisa.
10:07 Speaker 04 Yeah, so he, uh, he used to live, he used to live near, um, a game reserve called Maswa Game Reserve, which is near the Serengeti, uh, and he was, he was a kid, basically, and he was a poacher. So he used to hunt with a bow and arrow and poison.
10:22 Speaker 02 Oh, really?
10:22 Speaker 04 Yeah, he used to hunt with poison arrows.
10:24 Speaker 02 Uh, what was his favorite thing to hunt then?
10:28 Speaker 04 Um, lazamani, ulipenda kuinda wanyama gani.
10:33 Speaker 00 Azamani, mbogo ni raesi kwa sababu napokaa kuinyemaji, kwa tunatenge neza sarabeti ndogo kuinyemaji.
10:39 Speaker 04 Uh huh.
10:40 Speaker 00 Kwa yonmbogo napokuja angari, angari, anakuja moja kwa moja kwa yonni raesi kupiga kabisa.
10:45 Speaker 04 Ah, ngweli.
10:46 Speaker 00 Kabisa.
10:47 Speaker 04 So, his favorite was buffalo, and what he used to do. Yeah, what he used to do was, he'd build a small blind near a water hole.
10:54 Speaker 02 Okay.
10:55 Speaker 04 Very close, and when the buffalo came in to drink, he'd hit them with those poison arrows.
10:59 Speaker 02 Oh, I got it, yeah.
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13:56 Speaker 02 When he looks at, like oftentimes they'll find a dropping, buffalo dropping. He'll scratch it.
14:05 Speaker 04 Yeah.
14:07 Speaker 02 What clues are within that when he scratches the surface? What sorts of things does he like to see? How does it, when is it two days old? When is it one day old on a dropping?
14:18 Speaker 04 Ukiona mavi, una angalia nini ku gousu lini, wanapita usijui.
14:31 Speaker 00 Una angalia manaki shakunya, inanza upe po, inanza kukaoka. Kua una angalia distance ime kuka kia sigani. Ikianza ku ingia wadudu, niya skumbiri io pita. Kua onakutaku na wadudu.
14:45 Speaker 04 Yeah, so what he does when he, when he scratches it like that, he's looking at how dry it is and whether there's any bugs in there. If there's bugs in there, it's, it's been a couple of days for sure. If it's, if it's very wet, if there's just a very thin layer of dryness from the wind, then he knows it's fresh.
15:02 Speaker 02 Oh, okay. I got you. That's what that is? I was wondering why it's like an outside layer to it.
15:09 Speaker 04 Yeah, the outside layer is drying in the, you know, in the sun and the wind. So he's actually, when he kicks it, he's looking at the thickness of that, of that outside layer to know like how long it's been there. And then, yeah, he said if he sees bugs, no good.
15:22 Speaker 02 Got it. If you're, if you're tracking a bull or a group of bulls and you bump them once, bump them twice, bump them three times, does it get less encouraging or more encouraging?
15:37 Speaker 04 Well, from my perspective, it, it gets,
15:42 Speaker 04 I would say it gets slightly less encouraging. You know, you're definitely winding them up. Every time, you're kind of, you know, they're becoming like more tightly wound. So they're gonna put themselves in, in like thicker, darker cover. They're gonna start to really kind of be very switched on. As opposed to if you haven't bumped them at all and they're kind of just in dreamland, they're just chilling out. Which isn't to say that approaching them's super easy. They're still tricky. But yeah, when you've bumped them a few times, it definitely, it starts to get pretty marginal. And that's where I think what we've done today, giving them that little bit of time between each kind of bump to chill out, can help with that. Like particularly now, we've given them a couple of hours.
16:26 Speaker 04 They're gonna be pretty desperate to ruminate and lay down. So with a bit of luck, that'll, that'll work in our favor. But generally speaking, yeah, if you just keep pushing them like that, it gets kind of marginal and borderline dangerous too, depending on the situation.
16:43 Speaker 02 When Ali Mani was a boy, was he even aware that you could have the job he has now? Was he aware that this was a job? And would he have wanted this job as a boy?
16:54 Speaker 04 Yeah. Uli pokuwa a kijana, uli juakuusu kampuni ya wawindaji na kampuni yetu, na kazi, unaviufanya kazi.
17:11 Speaker 00 Napa? Nizama, nizama ni sana, liko abado. Kusabu kampuni meanza se manane, nibado nasoma. Kwa sijima mbo ya kampuni, lakini badai ndio nidi. Nidi ngia, lakini kupata kazi, nikusabu ya kujua ujangiri.
17:28 Speaker 04 So he had no idea. He didn't, he didn't know about this industry. He didn't know about the job. He, he only came to learn about it later. When, basically when this company started in, in Maswa, hunting there. He became aware of it. But yeah, all he knew was poaching.
17:46 Speaker 02 And then this is, this might be an awkward question since you guys worked together.
17:50 Speaker 04 Yeah.
17:51 Speaker 02 But uh, what does he like think of the job? Does he like the job? Is it just a job? Like what's, what's his take on it?
17:59 Speaker 04 Una, una penda kazi yaku.
18:02 Speaker 00 Sana, sana.
18:03 Speaker 04 Sana.
18:03 Speaker 00 Sana.
18:04 Speaker 04 Really?
18:04 Speaker 00 Kabisa.
18:05 Speaker 04 Nakufanya kazi pamoja na mimi?
18:07 Speaker 00 Una ona. Una ona.
18:10 Speaker 00 Sana. Sana.
18:13 Speaker 04 Yeah, he likes it and he likes working with me. But he's just saying that to be nice. I think I really chap his ass sometimes.
18:18 Speaker 02 Yeah. Well, I hope he knows, I want you to tell him that I have uh,
18:25 Speaker 02 every moment of watching those guys work is like pure joy to me. Like I really like, like I really, really like following those guys through the woods.
18:35 Speaker 04 Yep, yep. Anasema.
18:38 Speaker 04 Anapenda unavyo fanyakazi sana. Anapenda kuangalia kama unavyo fua tanyayo na kila kitu. Amefora i kabisa. He says, "Thank you very much."
18:50 Speaker 02 Tell him this. I hang out like, I know people, my friends. I have, I hang out with like very good hunters in America.
19:01 Speaker 02 Unless there's snow. Okay? Unless there's snow on the ground. For us, tracking is just that you can tell something came through. Or you can tell something frequents an area. Or you can tell it routinely comes through. But unless there's snow, we never follow an animal.
19:21 Speaker 04 So, um, ana sema ana juuwa watu wengi ambao wa naishi amerikani, alafu wa na windha pale pia, haweziku fanya kama una viufanya. Bilathelugi, oh, bilathelugi, oh barafu, hawezikabisa.
19:41 Speaker 02 Never, never, unless there's snow.
19:45 Speaker 04 Bilathelugi, hawezikubisa, kabisa.
19:50 Speaker 02 And I think he would enjoy snow a great deal.
19:52 Speaker 04 Yeah, I think he'd hide it.
19:56 Speaker 04 Ana sema ukiu, ukiuona thelugi uta, uta forai.
20:06 Speaker 04 Nina sema, ningumu sana alafupia utasikia baridi.
20:14 Speaker 02 Alright, so we're gonna, we're gonna pack up.
20:17 Speaker 04 Yep.
20:18 Speaker 02 We're gonna go back to where we lost the track.
20:20 Speaker 04 Yep.
20:21 Speaker 02 And then, how, when do you call it? Like, how do you, like, it's three thirty, it's gonna be three thirty PM? Sunset's around, what, six thirty?
20:28 Speaker 04 Yeah, you know, that's, it's a hard question to answer. It's kind of my prerogative. I would say if we bump them again, hard, and they go snorting out of there like they did last time, it's probably time to, to, to hang it up. But, in an ideal world, we'll find those things sleeping, and they'll have chilled out a good bit since that last bump, and we can make a play on them.
20:48 Speaker 02 And then, last question. If we, if, let's say we blow them out bad, tomorrow, do we just forget them? And go find other ones that haven't been disturbed?
20:59 Speaker 04 Not necessarily, not necessarily. I like this area. Um, if we really, I mean, if we blow them out bad, and for example, they go up on that escarpment again, and they just beeline it to a different valley, then yeah, it's probably not worth coming back here. With that being said, yesterday was four bulls. You know, this is three bulls. One of them's either, it's either a different group, or one of them spun off and gone on his own. Plus, there's another herd in this valley too. So, I'm not, I'm by no means gonna give up on this place. And that's why I've told the guys not to burn it.
21:31 Speaker 04 Which was sort of somewhat.
21:33 Speaker 02 We haven't gotten into the burning yet and we need to get into the burning on another dispatch, but the burning is the greatest thing in the world.
21:38 Speaker 04 Oh yeah, it's heavenly.
21:39 Speaker 02 Yeah. Being able to just flick matches in the right places and.
21:45 Speaker 04 Yeah.
21:45 Speaker 02 Well, it'd be like it's slow moving, low intensity grass fires.
21:51 Speaker 04 Yeah.
21:52 Speaker 02 That don't damage the trees.
21:54 Speaker 04 Yeah.
21:54 Speaker 02 It just clear out.
21:55 Speaker 04 Yeah.
21:56 Speaker 02 The old dead grass.
21:57 Speaker 04 Yeah, the decadent grass.
21:58 Speaker 02 And then a few days later.
21:59 Speaker 04 New grass comes out. Yeah, I mean, the burning really appeals to the little boy in all of us. Yeah. It's a hell of a lot of fun.
22:04 Speaker 02 Especially when you, when you look and it's like, you make like these perfect new grass growth areas. And then there's animals staying there.
22:10 Speaker 04 There's animals, yeah, yeah, there. It helps them too.
22:13 Speaker 02 Yeah, no, it's super cool. Very like not destructive.
22:16 Speaker 04 No, no, no, no, very restorative.
22:19 Speaker 02 Yeah.
22:21 Speaker 02 Alright, so you guys ready to go?
22:22 Speaker 04 Let's do it.
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