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History of Underwear: from shirts and stays to bras and briefs

You're Dead to Me

Hosted by Greg Jenner

1h 0m
Transcript

Original podcast

Summary

Written by a model from the transcript; not yet reviewed.

This episode explores the fascinating social and cultural history of underwear, tracing how garments worn beneath outer layers evolved from the medieval period through to the twentieth century. Host Greg Jenner, fashion historian Dr. Serena Dyer, and comedian Vic McAlister examine foundational garments like the linen shift and shirt, the evolution of men's codpieces, eighteenth-century stays and corsets, and the surprising twentieth-century origins of briefs and sports bras. Through specific historical examples, archaeological discoveries, and in-studio dress-up experiments with stays and panniers, the discussion unpacks how undergarments served functions ranging from basic bodily hygiene and temperature regulation to shaping fashionable silhouettes.

  • The basic unisex undergarment for centuries was a simple T-shaped linen piece designed to protect clothes from body sweat and skin from abrasive outer layers. 7:37
  • Historical undergarments like women's drawers lacked a crotch for most of their history, functioning primarily as two separate leg tubes to prevent chafing. 23:03
  • Corsets and stays were historically worn across all social classes primarily to create fashionable body silhouettes rather than to severely restrict the waist. 42:06
  • The modern men's brief originated in the mid-twentieth century as a popular style within queer male culture before being marketed broadly. 39:28

Chapters

  1. 0:00
    Podcast Intro and Advertisements

    The episode opens with a brief introduction to the BBC podcast and a series of paid advertisements from Whole Foods and GoTurkiye.

  2. 1:38
    Host Introduction and Guest Overview

    Greg Jenner welcomes listeners and introduces the two guests, historian Serena Dyer and comedian Vic McAlister, outlining the episode’s focus on underwear history.

  3. 5:51
    Defining Underwear and Historical Context

    The hosts and guests discuss what constitutes underwear, its evolution from the 16th century onward, and the social and hygienic reasons behind early undergarments.

  4. 7:37
    Early Underwear: Shifts, Smocks, and Linen

    Serena explains the simple T‑shaped linen garments worn by men and women, their production at home, and the importance of regular linen changes for hygiene and status.

  5. 17:00
    Transition to Modern Underwear and the T‑Shirt

    The conversation moves to the 19th‑century shift from shirts as underwear to the emergence of the T‑shirt as a separate undergarment, including its naval origins and cultural impact.

  6. 25:00
    19th‑Century Innovations: Codpieces, Union Suits, and Closed‑Crotch Briefs

    The hosts explore the codpiece’s evolution, the Union Suit’s rise, and the early 20th‑century introduction of closed‑crotch briefs, noting their niche popularity and advertising.

  7. 30:00
    Corsets and Stays: From Fashion to Function

    A detailed look at corsets, their materials, social roles, and the shift from decorative to restrictive use, including the emergence of the ‘pretty housemaid corset’.

  8. 35:00
    Modern Reinterpretations and Cultural Impact

    The episode concludes with reflections on how historical undergarments influence contemporary fashion, the role of queer culture in the adoption of briefs, and a playful experiment with period underwear.

  9. 48:11
    Chronological Journey Through 18th‑Century Corsets

    The hosts walk through the evolution of stays and corsets from the 18th century, highlighting practical features for pregnancy and the shift to front‑opening designs.

  10. 49:02
    Transition from Stays to Corsets in the 1860s

    Exploration of the 1860s corset, its busk, easier entry, and tighter lacing compared to earlier stays.

  11. 50:15
    Early Bra‑Like Garments in 15th‑Century Austria

    Presentation of an archaeological find at Lengberg, a linen, cup‑based garment aimed at achieving a flat‑chested ideal.

  12. 51:33
    Re‑emergence of the Bra‑Corset in the 19th Century

    The revival of a bra‑like corset during the Jane Austen era, focusing on bust support and the rise of lift‑style garments.

Highlights

  • 7:37

    The Universal T-Shaped Undergarmentinsight

    From the tenth to the nineteenth century, both men and women wore a simple T-shaped linen garment called a shift, smock, or shirt. It acted as an essential protective barrier between the body's sweat and valuable outer clothing that was rarely washed.

  • 10:00

    Medieval and Early Modern Laundrystrategy

    Because outer wool and silk clothing was brushed clean rather than washed, linen underlayers absorbed sweat and were frequently laundered using lye or even urine for its urea cleaning properties.

  • 23:03

    Crotchless Historical Drawersinsight

    Women's drawers worn in the nineteenth century lacked a crotch entirely, functioning as two separate leg tubes meant to prevent thigh chaffing while allowing easy access for bathroom breaks.

  • 27:54

    Ancient Underwear Discoveriesdata

    Archaeological finds reveal that underwear is extremely ancient, with linen undergarments sent to Roman soldiers at Hadrian's Wall, worn by Otzi the Iceman, and King Tutankhamun possessing 145 spare pairs.

  • 31:06

    The Practical Codpiecestrategy

    The sixteenth-century codpiece started as a practical triangular fabric flap providing access and coverage, before evolving into an ostentatious symbol of male wealth, virility, and armor protection.

  • 42:06

    The Truth About Corsetsinsight

    Corsets and stays were worn across all social classes, including by pregnant women and laborers, to shape fashionable silhouettes rather than to dangerously constrict the waist, with tight lacing being a rare practice.

  • 46:23

    Powder Pigeon Silhouettesinsight

    In the 1780s, fashionable women shaped their bodies to emulate pigeons, using stiffened, bouffant neckerchiefs for an exaggerated bust and rear padding known as a rump or bum.

  • 53:18

    Unusual Sports Bra Originsstory

    Developed in the 1970s as women participated more in rigorous sports, the prototype for the modern sports bra was constructed by strapping two athletic jockstraps together.

Quotes

  • “The core thing here is hygiene. So you are living in a society where you're not generally washing your outer layers.”
    Unnamed speaker · 10:00
  • “The humble gusset, the crotch, dates to the same time as radio and film cameras.”
    Greg Jenner · 27:05
  • “One of the most practical, useful things about these is that you can wear them throughout pregnancy.”
    Unnamed speaker · 48:26
  • “So this is an 1860s corset. So this is post that transition from it being stays into a corset.”
    Unnamed speaker · 49:02
  • “We have evidence for a bra-like garment that's much older. So there was an archaeological find at Lengberg.”
    Unnamed speaker · 50:14
  • “Women are taking up space. And most of the time in history, when there has been a move towards women wearing more emphasized bottom halves, there has been a backlash from men who don't like that the women are taking up space.”
    Unnamed speaker · 54:45
  • “So it showed me, for example, that there is a very different kind of comfort to be found in wearing garments which form the fashionable silhouette around your physical body, as opposed to the predominant culture today of altering the body itself to fit the beauty zeitgeist through diets or procedures.”
    Unnamed speaker · 58:05
  • Whole Foods Market 0:06–0:30
  • GoTurkiye 0:33–1:28
  • Whole Foods Market 33:18–34:12
  • Humana 35:05–35:29
  • Comedy of the Week 1:03:52–1:04:31

About this episode

Greg Jenner is joined in western Europe by historian Dr Serena Dyer and comedian and actor Vic Michaelis to learn all about the hidden history of underwear. For as long as people have been wearing clothes, they have been wearing garments under them – Romans at Hadrian’s Wall were sent underpants, and even Ötzi the Iceman was discovered wearing a form of undergarment. But what were people wearing before the invention of underwires and elastic, so essential to our modern conceptions of underwear? This episode traces the history of our underthings in western Europe and the USA from the medieval period, through the Tudor, Regency and Victorian eras, and into the modern day. Moving around the body, it takes in the linen shifts and shirts that were the universal undergarment for much of history, the development of drawers and stockings, and the shockingly recent invention of knickers and briefs. It also tackles stays and corsets, asking whether they were really as painful as film and TV depictions suggest, and looking at the reliability of on-screen underwear in programmes like ‘Bridgerton’. If you’re a fan of fashion trends of the past, evolving views on beauty and the body, and debunking historical myths, you’ll love our episode on the history of underwear. If you want more historical fashion and beauty trends, check out our episodes on the History of High Heels, Renaissance Beauty and haircare entrepreneur Madam CJ Walker. You’re Dead To Me is the comedy podcast that takes history seriously. Every episode, Greg Jenner brings together the best names in history and comedy to learn and laugh about the past. Hosted by: Greg Jenner Research by: Lily Tidman Written by: Dr Emmie Rose Price-Goodfellow, Dr Emma Nagouse, and Greg Jenner Produced by: Dr Emmie Rose Price-Goodfellow and Greg Jenner Audio Producer: Steve Hankey Production Coordinator: Gill Huggett Senior Producer: Dr Emma Nagouse Executive Editor: Philip Sellars

Transcript

0:00
1:00:31

12,126 words · 8 speakers

Speaker names marked are inferred from speaking time and the show’s known hosts — they are not voice-verified.

Topics

  • corset
  • shift
  • bra
  • codpiece
  • stays
  • union suit
  • sports bra
  • panniers
  • farthingales
  • 1970s

Page updated · transcript and summary are machine-generated