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Andrew Rosen Built Theory and Backed SKIMS – Here’s What He’d Tell Every Founder

Aspire with Emma Grede

Hosted by Emma Grede

1h 8m
Transcript

Original podcast

Summary

Written by a model from the transcript; not yet reviewed.

In this episode of Aspire with Emma Grede, fashion industry veteran Andrew Rosen shares his remarkable journey from working in family warehouses and leading Calvin Klein Jeans in his twenties to co-founding Theory and backing major brands like Skims and Good American. Rosen and the host explore the realities of building a business, the importance of focusing on the present rather than getting too far ahead, and why product excellence and gross profit must always come before rapid scaling and vanity metrics. Listeners get a rare look inside the mind of a legendary mentor who remains deeply passionate about product, integrity, and evolving alongside the modern consumer.

  • Founders should focus on the present and set short-term goals of three to six months rather than getting overwhelmed by distant long-range plans. 6:51
  • When starting out or evaluating business investments, profitability and gross margins must take precedence over chasing top-line vanity metrics. 45:20
  • True longevity in retail comes from mastering product fit and fabrication rather than mindlessly expanding into unrelated categories without expertise. 55:29
  • When choosing business partners, founders should carefully consider how an investor will react and collaborate when the business inevitably faces tough times. 48:05

Chapters

  1. 0:09
    Podcast Intro and Guest Introduction

    Emma Grede welcomes Andrew Rosen and outlines his impressive fashion legacy.

  2. 4:49
    First Lessons from Andrew’s Father

    Andrew reflects on the mentorship and principles instilled by his father, Carl Rosen.

  3. 13:57
    The Rise and Fall of Anne Klein

    Andrew recounts taking over Anne Klein, the hostile takeover, and his eventual departure.

  4. 20:11
    Personal Challenges and Resilience

    Andrew shares his divorce, single‑parenting, and how these shaped his leadership style.

  5. 27:31
    Founding Theory and the Lycra Revolution

    Andrew explains the vision behind Theory, the focus on Lycra fabrics, and early market positioning.

  6. 32:15
    Scaling Theory and Early Skepticism of E‑commerce

    Andrew discusses initial doubts about online sales and the rapid growth of Theory.

  7. 35:54
    Strategic Partnerships and the Japanese Deal

    Andrew details the partnership with Fast Retailing, the licensing in Japan, and long‑term collaboration.

  8. 39:45
    Leadership Philosophy and Integrity

    Andrew elaborates on his commitment to integrity, product quality, and company culture.

  9. 42:57
    Hiring, Team Dynamics, and Lateral Thinking

    Andrew talks about hiring practices, valuing lateral thinkers, and maintaining productive relationships.

  10. 47:20
    Investor Relations and Founder Support

    Andrew reflects on building strong investor‑founder relationships and guiding new founders.

  11. 49:48
    Success Stories and Portfolio Balance

    Emma highlights Andrew’s early successes with Good American and Skims, and they discuss how he balances large portfolio wins with emerging opportunities.

  12. 52:58
    The Complexity of Modern Fashion Brands

    They compare the simplicity of 1990s fashion companies with today’s need to handle product, marketing, retail, and media all in one.

Highlights

  • 7:44

    Surviving Over Long-Range Plansinsight

    The guest explains that when founding a company, the absolute first priority is survival, which means focusing on the present rather than looking too far down the road.

  • 11:22

    Starting Out in Warehousesstory

    Andrew Rosen describes learning the fashion business from the bottom up by working in knitting mills, sewing floors, and warehouses as a teenager.

  • 13:01

    Taking Over Calvin Klein Jeansdata

    At age 22, the guest took over the men's business for Calvin Klein Jeans, growing it to 100 million dollars within three years.

  • 16:06

    The Calvin Klein Takeoverstory

    Barry Schwartz and Calvin Klein executed a hostile takeover of the company a year after the guest became CEO following his father's passing.

  • 20:48

    Facing Professional Setbacksinsight

    When getting fired from Ann Klein, the guest viewed it not as a failure, but simply as a place that was no longer right for him.

  • 23:18

    Respect Over Being Likedinsight

    Recalling advice from his father, the guest emphasizes that leaders should strive to be respected rather than simply trying to be liked.

  • 30:39

    The Birth of Theorystrategy

    The guest partnered with Ellie Tahari to revolutionize women's workwear by creating a clothing line made entirely out of stretch fabrics with Lycra.

Quotes

  • “I think they try to do everything too quickly. There's sort of a cadence for when things need to happen, because brands wanna be around a long time.”
    Unnamed speaker · 6:00
  • “When I'm starting something or I'm involved with a young company, I may look down the road a couple of years, but I set my sights three to six months.”
    Unnamed speaker · 6:46
  • “I didn't really see it as failure. I saw it as an opportunity.”
    Unnamed speaker · 20:19
  • “I learned at a very early age that if you wanted to be respected, you had to do the right thing.”
    Unnamed speaker · 23:21
  • “I think it's all about the integrity, the integrity of the company you create, the product, the experience, the methodology of doing business.”
    Unnamed speaker · 38:41
  • “I think first of all, what kind of investor are you looking for?”
    Unnamed speaker · 47:31
  • “The key thing is not when business is good, the key thing is when business is not good.”
    Unnamed speaker · 48:05
  • “I'm looking at how we're going to build something that we can be proud of.”
    Unnamed speaker · 49:09
  • “You gotta do the right thing over and over again. And you gotta make product that's unique and different and that inspires the consumer.”
    Unnamed speaker · 54:56
  • “And when you have that opportunity, that's what excites you. It isn't the other side of things because again, it's like you clearly don't need to do this.”
    Emma Grede · 1:01:04
  • Odyssey 1:06:42–1:07:56

About this episode

Andrew Rosen has spent nearly five decades building, investing in, and shaping some of the most influential brands in American fashion. As the co-founder of Theory and an early investor in brands like TWP, rag and bone, Veronica Beard, Alice + Olivia, Good American and SKIMS, he’s also one of Emma's closest mentors. His advice comes from doing the work — and learning what happens when things don't go to plan. In this conversation, Andrew shares the lessons he took from his father, the setbacks that shaped how he built Theory, and the advice he gave Emma when she was becoming a brand owner. They explore how to trust your instincts, choose the right investors, and build a profitable business with staying power. They get into: Taking over as CEO of the family business in his twentiesLosing control of the company — and what he did nextGetting fired, and why he never saw it as failureThe experience he brought to starting Theory at 40Why profitability has to be part of the plan from the startWhat founders should actually look for in an investorThe lessons he took from his father that still shape how he does business

Transcript

0:00
1:08:01

12,628 words · 2 speakers

Speaker names marked are inferred from speaking time and the show’s known hosts — they are not voice-verified.

Topics

  • Theory
  • Skims
  • Good American
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Calvin Klein
  • T W P
  • Anne Klein
  • Frame
  • Veronica Beard
  • TWP

Page updated · transcript and summary are machine-generated